Sabtu, 02 September 2006

Caviar de la Croix Rousse



Something you'll likely see as an appetizer on any of the menus of the Lyon Bouchons is Caviar de la Croix Rousse. Don't take the name too seriously and you won't be dissapointed. It is basically lentils that have been cooked with lardons, which are cubes of smoked bacon, and a simple bouquet garni. This is served warm or chilled with a shallot or garlic vinaigrette. Caviar de la Croix Rousse is often featured along side salade de museau and thick sliced rosette lyonnaise as the first course at the Cafe des Federations. Mop up the juices with fresh pain de campagne and wash it down with a good Cote du Rhone on tap, and you're ready to begin your meal.

les Lentilles Vertes du Puy

The lentils we use in Lyon mostly come from the mountains of Puy, a stones throw from here to the west. Although these lentils are a bit more expensive, they are remarkably good as lentils go. They maintain their body when cooked, and maintain a good flavor when cooked. They too have the AOC label, and the farmers follow a whole slew of rules, which I'll go into one of these days. For now, I offer you the recipe for Caviar de la Croix Rousse.

Caviar de la Croix Rousse

1 cup or 250 grams lentilles vertes du puy or lentils of your choice
150 grams or 1/3 pound of smoked bacon, prefereably in one piece
a bouquet garni with a sprig of thyme, 2 French bay leaves or 1/2 california bay, and 3 or 4 sprigs of parsley
1/2 an onion
1 small shallot or 1/2 clove of garlic
2 tablespoons sunflower oil
1 tablespoon walnut oil
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
sea salt and ground black pepper

Rinse your lentils under running water until they're sure to be clean, and place them in a large pot with the bouquet garni, the 1/2 onion, and a teaspoon of sea salt. Slice off the skin from the bacon in one piece, and put it in the pot. Slice the bacon into lardons, and add them to the lentils. Cover the beans and bacon with three times their volume of water, and bring to a rolling boil. Reduce heat to medium, and slowly boil for 20 minutes. The lentils will lose their green color while cooking, and turn a light brown color. After 20 minutes, turn off the heat, but leave the lentils in their liquor while you prepare the vinaigrette. Blend the shallot or garlic, oils, vinegar, and 1/2 teaspoon each of sea salt and pepper in the blender or with an immersion blender. In the absence of a blender, just mince the shallot or garlic, and whisk with the oils, vinegar, and salt and pepper. Strain the lentils of their liquor, and put them in a bowl. Add the vinaigrette and gently coat the lentils. Add parsley if desired, when serving.

This is especailly delicious warm, and is often served that way, although the longer it lasts, the better it tastes. It always tastes better on the second day. If you don't have Puy lentils, never fear, follow the same instructions as above, but follow the cooking time recommended for your particular lentils.

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